Pilgrims Making their Way to the Iron Cross
My Camino Journey: From Dream to Reality
For over a thousand years, pilgrims from around the world have embarked on one of Europe’s historic and spiritual treks: The Camino de Santiago. Also known as the “Way of Saint James,” this iconic pilgrimage leads to the Cathedral of Santiago Compostela in Galicia, where tradition holds that the remains of Saint James the Apostle are buried.
The Route and Distance
The Camino isn’t a single path, but a network of ancient pilgrimage routes. The most popular route by far is the Camino Francés, which begins in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in the French Pyrenees and spans approximately 780 kilometers (about 485 miles) across northern Spain to Santiago de Compostela. Other well-known routes include the Camino Portugués from Lisbon or Porto, and the Camino del Norte, which hugs the northern coast.
The Scallop Shell: Iconic Symbolism of the Camino
The shell, specifically the scallop shell, is one of the most iconic symbols of the Camino Francés and the broader network of Camino de Santiago pilgrimage routes.
Why the Scallop Shell? According to legend, after St. James’s body was brought to Galicia by boat, a storm caused the boat to sink, and his body was later found covered in scallop shells.
Here’s what it represents:
1. Spiritual Meaning: The shell represents the journey of the pilgrim, with the lines on the shell symbolizing the many different routes that all lead to a single point: Santiago de Compostela, where the remains of St. James are believed to be buried. It’s also seen as a metaphor for personal growth and spiritual discovery, as pilgrims “converge” from many directions with different motivations and experiences.
2. Historical Use: In medieval times, pilgrims would carry a scallop shell as proof they had reached Santiago. It was also practical: the shell could be used as a scoop for food or water.
3. Modern Usage: Today, the shell is worn by pilgrims on backpacks or clothing to signify that they are walking the Camino. It’s also used as a ‘waymarker’ along the trail — you’ll often see yellow scallop shell icons on walls, signposts, and stones pointing the way.
The scallop shell is both a spiritual emblem and a practical guidepost, uniting pilgrims across centuries with a shared sense of purpose and destination.
A Journey Through Time
Pilgrims have been making the journey to Santiago since the early 9th century, when the tomb of Saint James was reportedly discovered. During the Middle Ages, the Camino was one of the most important Christian pilgrimages, rivaling those to Rome and Jerusalem. Over time, its popularity waned, but the last couple of centuries have seen a remarkable revival. Part of the renewed interest of lately is largely due to a movie starring Martin Sheen and his real-life son, Emilio Estevez. The story centers around the Camino Frances` with the plot of an American father who travels to France to retrieve the body of his estranged son, who died while attempting the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. He resolves to take the journey himself, in an effort to understand both himself and his son.
A Modern-Day Pilgrimage
Today, the Camino is more popular than ever. In 2023, over 400,000 pilgrims officially completed the journey, according to data from the Pilgrim’s Office in Santiago de Compostela. While many still walk the Camino for religious or spiritual reasons, others are drawn by the physical challenge, the cultural experience, or a desire for reflection and connection. Backpacking the Camino today blends centuries-old traditions with modern conveniences. Most pilgrims carry their belongings in a backpack, and the trail is well-marked and supported by a network of albergues (pilgrim hostels), cafes, and small towns. However, more services are now available than ever before, including baggage transport and guided tours, allowing flexibility for people of all fitness levels and backgrounds.
A Diverse Landscape
The Camino offers strikingly varied topography, adding to its allure. Starting in the Pyrenees, hikers ascend steep, green mountain paths with views of misty valleys. The trail then leads into the rolling vineyards and farmlands of La Rioja, followed by the Meseta, a high, flat plateau stretching through Castile and León—open, windswept, and meditative in its emptiness. As pilgrims near Galicia, the landscape shifts again: forests, streams, and lush green hills dominate, often cloaked in morning mist. The changing scenery offers both physical challenge and mental reward, reinforcing the Camino’s reputation as a journey of both body and soul.
Our Structured Pilgrimage with Dynamic Catholic
My personal journey was that of a spiritual meaning. There are other factors of course—history, cultural richness or simply for the joy of walking. The journey is transformative in a path of discovery for oneself and of the world. I and my dearest friend (and Camino partner) Lynn elected to join the pilgrimage sponsored by Dynamic Catholic—a U.S.-based Catholic organization and sponsors that guide pilgrimages along the Camino. Designed for persons looking for a more spiritual involvement in their journey to St. James Cathedral, offers group reflection, Mass, and prayer, along with physical walking. We were part of a group of about 19 other pilgrims on a bus accompanied with a priest, a guide and a driver. The group was large enough that we had 2 buses of pilgrims—2 priest, 2 guides, and 2 drivers. We joined together as a full group whenever possible.
How Our Days Went
Our day would begin with a family style breakfast, then off to a local church where the priests would take turns giving mass. Pilgrims from our group would volunteer to read the liturgy of the word (1st reading—old testament, responsorial Psalm, 2nd reading—new testament), presentation of the gifts—offertory, led in song, and helped with mass collections. After mass, we would all begin walking together as we recited the Rosary. We would then go off walking with a friend/pilgrim or for reaching that solo calm. It was very organized with checkpoints, lunch, and a ride to our nightly hotel if you could not make the journey that day. We had a quest each day for reaching the walking goal. Each day’s walk varied in kilometers/miles. Our longest day consisted of 29 kilometers or 18 miles. After we met our final checkpoint/goal for the day, our bus driver and guide took us to our targeted lodging for the night where we met for a family style dinner together before retiring for the evening.
Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross)
Our walking journey started at one of the most iconic stops—Cruz de Ferro, or Iron Cross located near the summit of Monte Irago in the province of León. Pilgrims traditionally carry a small stone from home and place it at the base of the cross—a symbol of letting go of burdens, seeking forgiveness, or honoring loved ones. I had my small stone from home and my intention for the stone in mind. (If a pilgrim needed help with a prayer, one was provided).(Cruz de Ferro is approximately 225 kilometers (140 miles) away—well before the final stages of the journey). We were let off the bus at a distance of approximately 4.8km or 3 miles from the Iron Cross.
[From Sarria, the most common starting point for pilgrims walking the minimum 100 kilometers, the Pilgrims starting in Sarria won’t pass the Iron Cross unless they began farther east, typically on the full Camino Francés. SINCE OUR JOURNEY BEGAN IN SARRIA, WE WERE TAKEN BY BUS TO THIS STOP SO WE WOULDN’T MISS THIS ICONIC REMINDER OF THE HARDSHIPS AND CHALLENGES THAT PILGRIMS FACE ON THEIR JOURNEY.]
The Galician Town of Sarria
Sarria is the most popular starting point for modern pilgrims because it sits just over 100 kilometers from Santiago de Compostela—the minimum distance required to earn the Compostela certificate. Despite its practicality, Sarria offers more than just logistics. It offers a relatively manageable walk with ample support and accommodations with charming streets, romanesque churches, and medieval bridges, it’s a quaint town with deep roots in the pilgrimage tradition. Cafés, hostels, and shops abound, making it a welcoming place to begin or rest. From Sarria onward, the Camino winds through Galicia, a lush, green region with rolling hills, shaded woods, and sleepy villages. It is a particularly scenic and spiritually rich stretch of the route.
Meeting Pilgrims from Around the World
One of the most remarkable aspects of the Camino is the global community it fosters. On any given day, you might walk beside someone from South Korea, Germany, Brazil, Canada, or South Africa. The Camino attracts people from over 150 countries, and the shared experience creates an instant sense of connection. Language barriers fade as gestures, smiles, and stories are exchanged over meals or along the trail. Friendships formed on the Camino often last far beyond Santiago.
Immersion in Nature
The Camino is also a sanctuary for those who seek peace in the natural world. Especially through Galicia, pilgrims walk under oak and eucalyptus forests, past rivers and meadows, and through tranquil farmland. Mornings often begin in a misty silence, with birdsong and the crunch of gravel underfoot. Many pilgrims find that immersion in nature slows their mind and helps them reconnect with a deeper rhythm of life—an antidote to the noise and speed of the modern world.
A Journey Through UNESCO World Heritage
The Camino is not only a spiritual and cultural phenomenon—it’s also recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. Specifically, the routes of Santiago de Compostela in Spain were designated in 1993 for their exceptional historical, religious, and architectural significance. This recognition protects many of the towns, cathedrals, and ancient paths that make the Camino so unique. As you walk, you’re literally stepping through a living museum of medieval Europe—one where pilgrims have passed for over a millennium.
Earning the Compostela Certificate
To receive the Compostela, the official certificate of completion, pilgrims must walk at least the final 100 kilometers (about 62 miles) to Santiago (or cycle the last 200 km). Proof of the journey is documented in a Credencial del Peregrino, or Pilgrim’s Passport. Pilgrims collect stamps (sellos) at churches, albergues, cafes, and other stops along the way. At least two stamps per day are required in the final 100 kilometers. Upon arrival in Santiago, pilgrims present their stamped passport at the Pilgrim’s Office, where it is reviewed. If all is in order, they are awarded the Compostela—a recognition not just of the distance traveled, but of the experience itself. Since I and friend Lynn were with the Dynamic Catholic group, our guide took our stamped passports and retrieved our Compostelas. Our full group of 38 pilgrims had a special celebration ceremony as our guides presented our certificates.
St. James Cathedral, Santiago de Compostela
St. James Cathedral, also known as the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, is a renowned Roman Catholic cathedral located in Santiago de Compostela, Galicia, Spain. It is the final destination of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage and is believed to house the remains of St. James the Apostle. The cathedral is a significant site for both religious and cultural reasons, attracting pilgrims and visitors from around the world.
The Botafumeiro: The Cathedral’s Iconic Incense Burner
One of the most striking features of the cathedral is the Botafumeiro, a giant incense burner that is swung during certain liturgical ceremonies. Weighing approximately 80 kg (176 lbs) and standing nearly 2 meters tall, the Botafumeiro is among the largest censers in the world. The Botafumeiro is suspended from the ceiling of the cathedral and is swung by a team of assistants known as tiraboleiros. The swinging of the Botafumeiro is a dramatic and awe-inspiring spectacle, filling the cathedral with aromatic smoke and captivating the congregation.
The Catholic Mass
The Catholic Mass is the central act of worship in the Catholic Church, commemorating the Last Supper and the sacrifice of Jesus Christ. It’s structured into two main parts: the Liturgy of the Word and the Liturgy of the Eucharist.
Symbolism of Incense in Catholic Liturgy
In Catholic tradition, the use of incense during Mass holds profound symbolic meaning: Purification and Sanctification: The smoke of incense symbolizes the purification of the faithful and the sanctification of the space, preparing it for the sacred mysteries of the Mass.
Prayers Rising to God: Incense represents the prayers of the faithful ascending to God, as described in Psalm 141:2: “Let my prayer be counted as incense before thee.”
Connection to the Divine: The use of incense connects the earthly liturgy to the heavenly worship, echoing the imagery found in the Book of Revelation, where incense is associated with the prayers of the saints before God’s throne.
The Botafumeiro’s Role in Pilgrimage and Worship
The Botafumeiro swinging is not only a liturgical act but also a gesture of reverence and thanksgiving. Historically, it was used to mask the odor of pilgrims who had traveled long distances to reach the cathedral. Today, it serves as a powerful expression of the pilgrims’ gratitude and devotion upon completing their journey.
Conclusion
Whether you’re starting in Sarria for a weeklong pilgrimage or undertaking the full Camino Francés over several weeks, the journey is layered with depth: sacred rituals, ancient landmarks, breathtaking scenery, and a global community. The Camino de Santiago is a walk-through history, a path of personal transformation, and a reminder that even in modern times, the human soul still seeks the sacred—step by step.
My Memories
My Compostela above transcribed from Latin to English. I Love Google!
Note: AI and Google assisted.